SteelSeries Arctis 7 2019 Edition Wireless Broken Micro USB to USB C upgrade Replacement

Written By: epooloope
  • Comments: 4
SteelSeries Arctis 7 2019 Edition Wireless Broken Micro USB to USB C upgrade Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

11

Time Required

4 hours

Introduction

This Guide is on how to upgrade your SteelSeries Arctis 7 to a USB-C port.

The Datapins are preserved so the headset still retains all of its functionality and can be connected to the PC via USB.

Note it will be somewhat destructive to your Headset, as the Port needs to be widened and some place has to be carved out of the Headset to fit the larger USB-C Port.

This has already been done by another user named Kireobat, though I use another approach: SteelSeries Arctis 1/7 micro USB port Replaced with USB C port.

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    • Remove Ear Cushions

    • Use the Torx T6H Bit to remove the screws

    • Gently lift the speaker side. Watch out for the Cables

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    • Remove and clean the Micro USB solder spot

    • My Micro USB has been ripped out. That's why I'm missing my pad

    • The pins are From left to right:

    • 1. VCC

    • 2. D-

    • 3. D+

    • 4. ID

    • 5. GND

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    • Use Kapton Tape to cover the Electric Components

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    • Add a 5.1 kOhm Resistor on between R1 and GND to configure the USB-C as a slave

    • Cover the open Pads with Kapton Tape

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    • Trim the plastic from the bottom screw hole on both the top and bottom halves of the case to make place for the port.

    • Note this may impact the robustness of your device. I did not notice any drawbacks

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    • Enlarge the micro USB cutout with a soldering iron

    • Lowering the temperature of your soldering iron gives you better control when enlarging the hole

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    • Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the USB-C connector and PCB

    • Position the USB-C board with a 2–2.5 mm overhang from the PCB

    • Preheat the USB-C board using a soldering iron or a heat gun if available. It helps in soldering as it has a large thermal mass

    • Melt solder on the GND pads. Ensure they are fully covered and thoroughly heated

    • Place the board on the GND pads. Use additional heat

    • Ensure no contact between ground pads and other USB-C contacts.

    I'm attempting this right now, but I'm having trouble soldering the usb c port in place any tips for making the solder stick to the port itself?

    Pedro Barreiro -

    Thanks for attempting it, kinda makes me happy :) I also had some problems at this step

    The temps need to be sufficiently high, for the solder to properly wet the surface of the USB port. It is important to keep your port long enough in place for the solder to cool completely

    You could also try sanding the USB-c port to increase surface area and also remove the protective coating.

    Keep the surfaces clean!

    Use flux!

    Use enough heat!

    If you have problems ask me anytime and let me know how your repair went :D

    epooloope -

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    • Solder Jumper cables to the following breakout pins

    • Solder Connections:

    • TP401 for V

    • TP403 for D+

    • TP404 for D-

    • TP412 for GND

    • Ensure each connection is secure, has proper contact and free of shorts

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    • Solder the cables to the corresponding pads on the USB-C board

    • (Optional): Add hot glue to the connections on both sides for extra stability

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    • Position the board in the case. Push the ports into the cutouts

    • Adjust until screw holes on the case match those on the PCB

    • Close the headset and fasten the srews

    • CONGRATS !! You made it :D

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

epooloope

Member since: 29/04/23

173 Reputation

2 comments

Hey does this provide data and charging or only charging?

Pedro Barreiro -

Yes it does provide data and charging as you also solder the datapins to the USB C port.

So it is being recognized by the software.

epooloope -