MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Hard Drive Replacement

Written By: Walter Galan

Comments: 29

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Hard Drive Replacement

Difficulty

Easy

Steps

Time Required

No estimate

Introduction

When replacing your hard drive, you must transfer the Torx screws from the old drive to the new one.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.
Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.

The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

aguib -

Quote from aguib:

The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.

lgc90 -

when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?

irishking -

Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?

Max

Max -

On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 Hard Drive Replacement , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.

Can you confirm this?

Many thanks in advance.

ahothabeth -

Quote from SHerwood Ball:

My display and aluminum casing has separated.

I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.

I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.

I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping

portion have been broken........

SHerwood Ball -

When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?

thvv -

We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.

I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.

The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.

Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!

landryd - 23/12/14

Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?

jegonzalez80 - 25/06/15

Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.

kenneth krabat -

Step 2

The access door should now be raised enough to lift it up and out of the Unibody.

Step 3

Be sure the access door release latch is vertical before proceeding.
Grab the translucent plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.
If the latch is depressed it will lock the battery in place.

Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?

Kaila Potts - 05/03/17

No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.

Titus (#1579) - 11/10/17

Step 4

Remove the single Phillips screw securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.
This screw is captive to the hard drive bracket.

when trying to remove the first screw (the bracket one) i didn't succeed. i think i've damaged the screw. is there any way to unscrew it? it seems fixed - maybe due to hot temperatures. the computer is still in warranty, at least until middle December - would warranty include this kind of repair? may i fixit myself? how can i remove the screw? thanks in dvance

raul -

Any luck removing the first screw? or did you seek the help of a repair shop?

Kevin Gordon - 02/03/15

I've had a similar issue where the Philips didn't fit in the screw. Ended up using 2 flathead drivers to pull the hard drive up and away from the opposite black bar by using some force. I could then slide the hard drive out of the enclosure. Then removed the 2 screws that hold that bar in place. I could then slide in the new drive with the removed bar re-attached to it, and then screw it back into place.

Be careful with this, as it can damage the enclosure. Will definitely void warranty.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/RHochst...

Roy Hochstenbach - 11/11/15

Step 5

Lift the hard drive by its pull tab enough to grab and remove the retaining bracket.
Lift the hard drive out of the upper case, minding the cable attaching it to the computer.

Step 6

Remove the hard drive from its cable by pulling the cable connector straight away from the drive.

Step 7

Remove two T6 Torx screws from each side of the hard drive (four screws total).
You'll need to transfer these screws to your new hard drive if you're changing drives.
If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

In step 7 one uses a 1.5 hex key not a T6 torx, which is too small and ill-shaped.

dporritt -

Quote from dporritt:

In step 7 one uses a 1.5 hex key not a T6 torx, which is too small and ill-shaped.

I am trying to use a 1.5 hex key for removing the screws and it is not working at all. I am going to have to get to the store and get a T6 Torx I guess.

Chris Morris -

I wonder whether the rubber sheeting used to insulate the original drive is sold somewhere… My new hard drive needs some, because in its current 'naked' state it causes a lot of vibration in the body.

Bert Vanderveen -

Quote from Bert Vanderveen:

I wonder whether the rubber sheeting used to insulate the original drive is sold somewhere… My new hard drive needs some, because in its current 'naked' state it causes a lot of vibration in the body.

I'm not sure about a source for the original sheeting, but you can improvise with a layer of electrical tape or duct tape trimmed to size. Make sure you leave the 'do not cover' vent hole uncovered.

Andrew Bookholt -

Yea just use needlenose pliers just did that didn't even leave a mark on the outside of the screws.

Evan Shaw - 28/07/14

T6 Torx worked fine for me.

lcgillies - 31/12/15

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Walter Galan

697731 Reputation

7 comments

At step 7, the side screws are very tight. Both T6 Torx and 1.5 Hex keys dont work for me. I fear the screws could get damaged if i try more. How do i unscrew them?

svelcme -

What was your solution to removing the screws? I am having the same isse.

Kevin Gordon - 02/03/15

Perfect instructions. I am now running a Crucial SSD drive and the improvement is amazing. Thanks.

Carlos -

Hello

Sandisk X400 SSD proposed for this macbook works in 3gb/s?

There is a known limitation of nvidia chipset with ssd's who appear to work as sataI instead of sataii.

Thank you

George Konstantakis - 12/04/16

Any news regarding this?

George Konstantakis - 18/04/16

My hard drive failed and it was too old for Apple to fix. I did this and the install went great. I replaced with a (Old Model) Seagate 1TB Gaming SSHD SATA 8GB NAND SATA 6Gb/s 2.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000LM014) bought from Amazon. However, the computer will not power up. Nothing happens when I hit the power button. Any ideas or suggestions?

jenny - 22/02/17

I completed the remove and install. The Side screws have LocTite on them to prevent backing out. After removal you might notice a blue substance on the screws. That's LocTite. It's good stuff. Just make to to use the correct kind, (not permanent adhesive).

Art Chris - 02/04/17