How to fix HP Color LaserJet 2600n Fading Color

Written By: Jay Miley
  • Comments: 66
How to fix HP Color LaserJet 2600n Fading Color

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

27

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Over time, the laser toner leaks into the scanning element and can interfere with the printer's ability to produce consistent color. To repair this, we first must disassemble the printer to reach the scanning element, and then clean the optics so the printer produces color as it was meant to.

The first time I did this repair it was with guidance from the pdf attached to the first reply in this thread

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    • Before we begin, make sure to unplug the printer and any connected wires. To be extra safe, turn the power switch to 'off.'

    • First, let's establish what part of the printer is what so that we can communicate clearly throughout the guide. The red square is the front and the orange square is the top. After those, we have left (yellow), and right (green). The back is opposite the front and the bottom is opposite the top.

    This printer requires genuine HP toner cartridges. If you don't believe me, knock yourself out with the cheapies and you will be knocking at this iFixit guide before too long. You will get a lot of toner blowing out of the cartridges, all over the inside of the printer and the paper tray. Pretty soon your printouts will have color streaks on them. I didn't believe it until it happened to me. After using only genuine HP toner for years I finally bought two sets of knockoffs and my printer was nearly destroyed. After tearing it down again and cleaning all the blown-by toner from everywhere, I'm back in business. This is a great guide. Now where IS that ice cream truck?

    George Fish -

    Agree! ^^ If I’d stuck with the more expensive HP toner rather than looking to save some money, I’d have saved time by not having to mess with this.

    Seykick -

    My printer has printed 19,877 copies with only genuine HP cartridges. It got so bad that some parts of the page were perfect where other parts were badly faded. When I went through this process, both inside mirrors were covered with toner. After completing the process, the printing is almost perfect. Thanks for this tutorial.

    Jeff Martin -

    A have a perfect 2605 and bought a 2nd hand 2605dtn with faded colors. Thought empty cartridges were the cause, but no. Decided to rescue the network card for my 2605. But with nothing to lose, I decided not to watch TV with a beer but to try this manual. And to my own surprise I managed to follow all steps. Ended with 2 screws left over and a brand new printer. It wasn’t that difficult and it didn’t take long.

    I also feel good for doing something for the environment.

    Thanks Jay

    p.s. do you have such manual’s for my car, dishwasher & scooter?

    wentfotografie -

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    • Laser printers often have loose toner, a very fine and vibrant powder that will invade everything you don't want it to. I did my disassembly outside

    • Open the front door and remove the toner cartridges.

    • Set the cartridges aside for later. To keep them clean, place them in a bag or closed box.

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    • Place the printer so that the right side is on the ground.

    • Remove the paper tray from the bottom of the printer.

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    • Remove the indicated Phillips M3 screw from the left side of the printer

    • In this photo, the paper tray is still in the printer. On your device, the tray should already be set aside.

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    • Release the tabs as indicated in the example by lifting or pressing them as needed.

    • Some of the press tabs are hard to reach with a finger. If needed, gently press in the tab with a screwdriver until it releases.

    See steps 10 and 11 below for the right side panel. I found it much easier to remove the entire side (side panel and bottom side piece) at once than to remove just the bottom piece first. It also avoids risking breaking any of the tabs from the bottom piece that are wedged up under the side panel. If doing this again, I’d just loosen all the tabs for both the bottom piece AND the side piece (inside the unit, near where the toner cartridges slide into place) and THEN remove the entire side. Hope that helps.

    Seykick -

    Mache Schritt 23, wenn der Drucker von Unten zugänglich ist. Damit ersparst Du Dir später das Umsetzten auf die Seite des Druckers.
    Do step 23 when the printer is accessible from below. This will save you having to move it to the side of the printer later.

    Georg W...100 -

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    • Lift and remove the left base cover

    • If it feels like something is holding the cover in place, there probably is. Go back and look for additional tabs, as I may have missed listing some of them. This applies to any item removal in this guide.

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    • Release the tab fasteners on the left side cover

    Note: This is on the inside of the printer. While it’s lying on its side, open the front door (where you put/remove the toner cartridges) and you’ll see these tabs on the left side (which is currently at the top).

    Seykick -

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    • Lift and remove the left cover

    • If it feels like something is holding the cover in place, there probably is.

    • When reassembling, you have to mate the three noted tabs/slots, even though they do not snap in place.

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    • Rotate the device so it rests on its back.

    • Unscrew and remove the two Phillips M3 screws as indicated from the right side covers.

    • Most of the screws in this printer are identical - the ones that are different will be noted as such.

    It’s kind of obvious here, but before you set it on its back, remove the paper feed tray extension from the top back. :)

    Seykick -

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    • Release tabs on the right base cover and right cover.

    • Some of these tabs are inside the printer, so you will need to open the door and look along the right side.

    You can lift up the gray side piece to loosen the tabs of the lower piece.

    Martin Kemp -

    This is much easier if you remove the grey side panel first.

    Mark Rennison -

    Das Seitenteil ist mit einer dritten Schraube gesichert. Diese Schraube muss er beseitigt werden.

    Georg W...100 -

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    • Remove the right base cover and right cover from the printer.

    • If it feels like something is holding the cover in place, there probably is.

    • When reassembling, you have to mate the three noted tabs/slots, even though they do not snap in place.

    By releasing the tabs from the bottom piece and the side piece (from the inside tabs), the entire side comes off together much easier than trying to remove just the bottom piece first. I think this would have worked easier for the left side, too, and not risk snapping any of those tabs on the bottom piece.

    Seykick -

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    • Place the device right side up once again.

    • Remove the nine indicated Phillips M3 screws from the back plate.

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    • With the screws removed, lift the back cover from the bottom and remove from the printer.

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    • During the next two steps, do not unplug any of the connections in the example boxed in orange.

    On my 2605dn, the yellow wires did not exist.

    R Kerber -

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    • Carefully and gently handle the wires and cables in the printer. They may break or bend, rendering your printer inoperable.

    • Remove the ribbon cable by pulling directly along the cable.

    • Remove the white connector by pressing down on the tab and pulling out.

    • Pull the purple wire connectors directly out. You do not need to mark which cable goes where, as they are all unique sizes.

    • Remove the white connector by pressing down on the tab and pulling out.

    The purple wires are the most difficult here. I found I was able to pry most of them a little by getting a fingernail in between the bottom (back) side of the plug and the receptacle. Getting this even just a little loose helped ease the tension from pulling on the wires. For some, I just had to pull the wires but tried to grab as close to the base as possible and pull firmly but gently. Do be careful not to press against the capacitors (the little round tube things in the lower right of the circuit board in the purple wires picture). Just be careful in this step and proceed carefully. You don’t want to pull any of the wires out of the connectors!

    Seykick -

    Also, the bottom row is only three connectors. The two yellow boxes on the left are actually one bigger connection.

    On my model, there is also a white connection receiver left of those on the board where the white outline is on the board in this picture. There aren’t any wires to connect to it, but it can be confusing during reassembly if you have that extra port there.

    Seykick -

    Yes, the bottom two yellow boxes are actually one long connector. My printer also has a white connection receiver on the bottom left where the white out line is. There are no wires connected there..

    Jeff Martin -

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    • Remove the four ribbon cables gently from the right edge of the circuit board assembly.

    • Remove the final two wires by pulling them straight out.

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    • Unwind the cables from the black harness on the top and right edges of the circuit board assembly.

    I did not have to unwind the cables from the top black harness. I was able to leave the cables in the harness, slide the harness to the left to unhook it and twist the harness with the wires around to the left side of the printer.

    Jim -

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    • Depress the indicated tabs and remove the corner wiring harness from the circuit board assembly.

    There are actually three tabs on this piece. The arrows here don’t really point to the right places. The top arrow is right, but the bottom arrow, the tab is farther over to the right where that little notch is, just above that screw. The third mirrors that one at the top of the piece, outside of the picture.

    Seykick -

    My printer only had 2 tabs  - must be a product variant  - but my top tab was to the  left of top tab indicated, above and opposite the left hand cable retaining lug. My bottom tag was as previous comment  - ‘where that little notch is above that screw’

    Peter -

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    • Slide the top wiring harness to the left and remove it from the circuit board assembly.

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    • Remove the eleven indicated Phillips M3 screws from the circuit board assembly.

    In the upper left corner (not shown in the image; where the left-most arrow is pointing), that screw is sideways or horizontal as you’re looking at it. It’s on the little leg from the unit. The rest, you look at the top of the screws from this view.

    Seykick -

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    • Remove the circuit board assembly from the printer, being cautious of the wires and cables,

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    • Remove the two ribbon cables gently from the optical sub-assembly.

    • These ribbon cables are hard to replace. If you are having trouble, try asking someone with smaller hands! Be gentle, ribbon cables are not the most robust connectors.

    Just like with the reassembly (where you can connect the cables before putting the sub-assembly fully back in place), you can remove the sub-assembly screws first and then remove the ribbon cables as your take the sub-assembly part-way out if you prefer. You might find that easier.

    Seykick -

    Die Flachkabel werden von einer Halterung an der rechten Seite gehalten.

    Öffne die Halterung, die durch einen Haken gesichert ist.

    Die Flachkabel bleiben mit der Platine verbunden und werden dadurch geschont.
    The flat cables are held by a bracket on the right-hand side.

    Open the holder, which is secured by a hook.

    The flat cables remain connected to the circuit board and are therefore protected.

    Georg W...100 -

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    • Tilt the printer forward and remove the Phillips screw with a lock-washer from the bottom area of the printer.

    • The lock-washer is attached to the screw, so you do not need to worry about losing it.

    I had to remove a flexible metal cover to get to the screw

    Martin Kemp -

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    • Set the printer back down and remove two more Phillips screws with integrated lock-washers, which releases the optical sub-assembly.

    • Remove the optical sub-assembly, this is what you need to repair.

    When you reassemble it, be sure to note this, from George Fish.

    The Optical Sub-Assembly (OSA) is a real bear to situate properly.

    The OSA has two screws on top and one underneath. The key to seating the thing properly is to hold the upper right side in so that the unit doesn't rock from left to right. Once you have that stabilized, put the screw in on the upper right. Then the left side, then the bottom.

    Seykick -

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    • Place the optical sub-assembly with the side that was facing you down.

    • Remove the indicated black screw.

    • Unhook and save the indicated spring.

    • Remove the top plate from the optical sub-assembly.

    To get the spring out easily and without damaging it, you can take a paper clip, unbend it a little, and hook it on the spring on the right side and pull it off gently while keeping the lever in place with your finger. Pretty easy with the paper clip (or a wire, needle, pin, etc.).

    Seykick -

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    • These are lenses, mirrors, and sensors used by the printer to determine how it is printing. Any damage will affect the quality of printing.

    • Using a clean cotton swab or lens brush, GENTLY clean the visible sides of every clear or reflective surface you can find.

    • Do not scratch or rub the optics, use a brushing motion instead.

    • For more details on what you are doing and why, refer to the document mentioned in the introduction.

    The little parts shown in the third picture are accessed by lifting up (or out) the plastic piece that swings - the one the spring was attached to in step 24. That just lifts straight out and you can clean these little things on both sides and top and then put the plastic piece back in easy enough. Just clarifying where they are located / how to find them.

    Seykick -

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    • Finish with a light blast of compressed air on all of the surfaces you cleaned.

    • Your printer should now be fully functional! Except for the part where it is disassembled.

    • To reassemble your device, repeat these steps in reverse order.

    If your compressed air shoots out a bit of liquid in the process (a common thing with compressed air), you probably want to give another pass over with the cotton or lens cloth to get as much of the moisture removed. At least now you know it is really clean!

    Seykick -

    Oh, and give it a few minutes before starting to reassemble. Withe the compressed air, it is cold. This may cause a little condensation as the parts go cold quick, then take a bit to warm up. Just use the cotton or cloth to get the condensation off. After a few minutes, that should stop and you can reassemble.

    Seykick -

    Reassembly tip: Reconnect the two ribbon cables to the optical sub-assembly before putting the assembly in and attaching it. You can connect the bottom one with the unit about half-way in, the the top one with the unit slid in a little bit. Then you can put the whole thing in place and re-install the screws. Connecting the ribbon cables first makes it much easier to get them reconnected.

    Seykick -

    When you reassemble it, be sure to note this, from George Fish.

    The Optical Sub-Assembly (OSA) is a real bear to situate properly.

    The OSA has two screws on top and one underneath. The key to seating the thing properly is to hold the upper right side in so that the unit doesn't rock from left to right. Once you have that stabilized, put the screw in on the upper right. Then the left side, then the bottom.

    Seykick -

    Engine communication error after do this task

    JTSB PNP -

    The printer had been working except the faded red before I did this. Oddly I could not find my optical subassembly had any spring at all (not sure if it was always missing or someone I lost in disassembly but I was able to find a suitable one as a substitute. However now after reassembly, I get an error message 51.23 and I try to power down for a minute or so and power back up, yet the issue continues. Any clues?

    Barry -

    Excellent well organized presentation for the procedures.

    Dennis Bowlby -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Jay Miley

Member since: 22/04/14

5168 Reputation

33 comments

Takes 2-3 hours to disassemble and reassemble for a first timer but it worked really well!

And in the end all it cost me was my time.

Many thanks!

Jon Rousseau -

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with this guide.

Since I had the machine apart I took the time to clean every area I could get to that is within the paper path.

It took me 6 hrs. to complete the job; but it did not work.

The printer indicated an Error Code 51.21.

So I did the job over again.

I had been fooled by the two ribbons that connect to the optical sub-assembly that by design rub up against the right side of the box, even when disconnected.

My second servicing took me about three hours.

Thank you.

I have a normal working color printer again, and did not have to buy saved the cost of parts and labor by using your guide for restoration.

John Knapp -

Hi there - In step # 23, am I missing the right screw or is there really just one Phillips screw with a lock-washer?

R. Douleh -

R. Douleh- the manufacturer did not put a screw on the right side for some reason.

sdelong25 -

This really is, without doubt, the best set of do-it-yourself instructions I have seen in my 45+ years working in the IT industry.

I didn't see any dust in the area to be cleaned, so I am a little mystified as to what the cause was. I got the missing magenta colour working but despite running the process twice I could not get yellow to work properly. I only use it for printing letters and spreadsheets, so I can live without that.

Thanks again

Paul Roussell -

I had the "no printing of the red colors" problem and found this post. There was very little (no?) dust found inside the optical sub assembly upon my cleaning. After re assembly I had an issue with no toner printing at all. I think this may have been from the optical sub assembly not being fully seated against the case. Of course, I did reseat every cable as well so that could have been the cause. I Just finished my repair. All colors print and they look vibrant. Many thanks to you! What a wonderful post.

John B. -

The Optical Sub-Assembly (OSA) is a real bear to situate properly. The first time I did this procedure (from a different online source), I failed to seat the OSA correctly and the colors printed fine on one side and blurry on the other side. I had to completely disassemble the printer again and seat the blasted thing correctly. I recently had problems with printing and toner blow-by, so I decided to do the same repair again. And this time, even knowing the problems I had last time, STILL failed to seat the OSA correctly! So now I'm using this excellent tutorial to tear the printer down a 4th time! Before I remove the OSA, I'll use some thickness gages to see where I went wrong, and for everyone to absolutely know that the thing is aligned properly. Be back soon!

George Fish -

The OSA has two screws on top and one underneath. The key to seating the thing properly is to hold the upper right side in so that the unit doesn't rock from left to right. Once you have that stabilized, put the screw in on the upper right. Then the left side, then the bottom.

George Fish -

OMG I wish I’d seen these comments at the end before I reassembled! I’m going to copy and paste your tip up above in the instructions because I reassembled and got very clean printing but ghost imaging. So, I’m going to try your trip to position it properly and see if that works. Thanks!

Seykick -

Thanks for the guide!

Tony Tyfting -

Excellent Guide! My 2600n hasn't printed like this in years! Thank you. Thank you.

Ges Resource -

After I did all of this, my printer will only print blank pages. Is there something I didn’t do correctly?

Rylee Spurgeon -

based on previous comments, perhaps you need to redo the steps and carefully reseat all parts, connections, cables. A few commenters talk about the black optical sub assembly being VERY finicky, and causing uneven or *no* tonor, like yours. Good luck.

Darryl- Davidson -

While I appreciate the effort the author went through, as well as those who commented, this didn’t work out well for me. It certainly is not a 30-60 minute job. It took me in the range of 2-3 hours and I ended up with a printer that didn’t work. As I’m doing this at work and had a spare gap of time to fill, it’s not really worth it for me to open it back up again undo everything and redo it to see what might have gone wrong. With the steps involved in this and the care needed, I’d say this is more than “moderate” difficulty. Kudos to those of you for whom this worked out. RIP color printer.

My one main advice for anyone trying would be to make sure you have the right screw bit(s) as most of my screw drivers/bits didn’t work well on these screws. Also, I only had screwdrivers available—having a power tool would help cut down on the time. Best of luck!

JonnyPC -

Did all the steps now it says sensor error turn off then on. what could i have done wrong?

Perla Pillado -

Great guide.

I was printing a song to being used next day at a 50 years birthday party. No red colour. Then I saw this and decided to make my yellow danish flag red again. Two hours later everything worked and I was able to print the song in the right colours. Thank you very much. Good job.

hans -

let’s see if anonymous user can post a reply

well i have one of those printers and it is more trubble than it is worth

but i was the person who really broke it in the end

while opening and cleaning different element, blak and color toner solenoids i broke 2 different things

1 paper feed

2 pink toner all together ,

and the printer squeels now like crazy whenever i turn it on

i belive i broke high voltage board just by opening the case and laying the printer on it’s side, when i worked on the other side so magenta toner is no longer visable at all and it can’t calibrate colors either, but tryes quite badly

so be carefull when opening them, because you may break them too if you mess up

Kokodin Kokodin -

I completed all the steps and it did improve the print quality slightly. All in all, I think worth doing once in a while. Good guide.

Peter -

Thank you very much, it did work !! thought the mirrors and lenses were not dirty , they were !

gino -

I did this yesterday and the result was no toner at all. Back at it.

I notice the optical unit box with the spring lever, rests over a bit of piece of plastic controlled inside. One of the flanges on a inside a circular “track” broke off during reassembly. After looking at this tiny bit of plastic it didn’t appear to be critical. I will simply have to leave it, too hard to fix. The bit of plastic that broke off pivots in a slot, and only rotates a short distance. There are 2 opposite identical flanges. The other is fine. The bit that broke off is only the tip that sticks out and keeps it from “going inside too far”. It touches nothing. Another failure point is the spring lever that goes inside a rectangular hole. Inside is another lever that pushes it to open the flaps in the box. There is no way to see this when putting it back in. It could go behind the lever or in front. I may have put the lever in the wrong spot. Getting this lever in the correct position may be causing the other seating issues described

vern -

I was right! Working fine now. It was the dang little plastic spring lever. Must have been in the wrong spot or misaligned. After taking apart again I carefully fiddled and nudged until it felt like the spring lever wasn’t hitting anything (hard to tell). I also set up my phone camera to sort of “watch” to see the lever “go in the hole”. Tight fit, had to tape it inside and slowly slide the box in. This was only a touch better than useless as a way to align it. After all that effort the printer is working… better… it still prints light but on ALL colors instead of no magenta. Of course it still won’t take paper from the paper tray (have to hand feed tray 1) but it did that before so a different issue.

I’m just happy didn’t waste $100 on a set of cartridges only to have bricked the whole thing.

p.s. The bit of plastic that broke off had zero effect at all. Just as I thought it wasn’t important.

vern -

Followed this guide due to faded colours. Found virtually no dust or dirt on the optics but cleaned them anyway. Instructions were fantastic and, to my surprise and delight, the colours are back to the standard of a brand new printer. Thank you.

Alan Smith -

Just successfully completed this servicing job.  Couldn't have even contemplated it without this excellent guide (plus comments).  Took me considerable longer but I was being extremely careful not to break anything.

Removing the cable connections was the most troubling.  But I ended up using a flat narrow nosed pliers that allowed me to grip the entire width of the cable right up close to the connector.  Then gently and evenly pull.

One final "funny" thing!   When I finished I powered up and printed a supplies test page to see if it had worked.  And the same fading fault was present across all colours . . . . so I switched off and went to bed disheartened.

Next day thought I'd look at it again.  Switched on ran the same supplies test page  . . and everything was perfect !!!!  I am still trying to work that out.

good luck guys. . . .Roger

Regor Yekrats -

Just completed this procedure on my machine and it WORKED PERFECTLY… Absolutely solid instructions and very easy to do. Probably saved a $200+ service call - so really appreciate this very thoughtful post. Wouldn’t change any of the instructions and appreciate the multiple photos and details. Well done!

Bruce Caswell -

Thanks for this tuto, very well done. I wanted to do since a long time…and finally decided with the confinement ! It is not so difficult, but it take more than one hour !

Pierre GAIN -

My HP2605dn had faded colors and a light grey background on almost every print. Like someone else here mentioned there didn’t seem to be any dust on the internal optical parts, but I cleaned them anyway. To my surprise the printer is working fine again with vivid colors.

To put the optical unit back into place, you need to keep the protruding lever as ‘flat’ as possible with your finger while installing it back into place.

I did not remove the cabling from the upper guide.

Jon DS -

After 14 years (it is May 2020 now), my printer finally had problems printing red. This article and its additional comments were spot on for fixing it. Thanks, everyone.

If you are going to try this, be patient and deliberate, making sure you have the correct tools. Take the time to understand each step. Having some needle nosed pliers handy to gently remove some of the purple-wired connectors was handy for me (make sure you grip the connector, not the wires). When you are putting it back together, stop when you get the wires and harnesses connected and in place; test the printer with the covers off in case you made a mistake and have to go back in.

Finally, recalibrate your printer when you have it working and put back together.

Bob Clarke -

The colors of the old printer I bought got more vivid, also the black text can be read easier. Actually my printer is a HP2605dn, but nearly everything was the same as in the description. Thanks for sharing this tutorial!

mrqbxm -

hello every one, please suggest to me how i can fix a hp laserjet 2600n with 51.23 error code. the problem stated from black toner not printing at all then when i got the gear responsible for rolling the black catridge drum rolling it displays “51.23 error off and on” which i did severally. Any helpfull suggestion will do. Thank you as you reply.

Muhammed -

I need an engineer in fct Abuja Nigeria to help me check mine.

keemsspro -

Thank you - worked through this and got it printing bright colours again! The optical box wasn’t as ‘mucky’ as I thought it might be, but worked well. Now to quit using ‘knock-off’ toners and buy HP!

Thanx

Dewdney Players -

Thank you for this perfect repair instruction. My hp color LaserJet2600 suffered from fading magenta over time. Two of the mirrors in the optical scanner unit had some sticky dust on their surface. After cleaning the mirrors and the big scanner lens with moistened Q-Tips the printer had colours again like on its first day. Disassembly took a while but assembly was easy.

Horst -

Vielen Dank für diese ausführliche Anleitung! Man glaubt ja nicht, wie viel Staub da bei nicht mal 2000 gedruckten Seiten auf der Optik sich befindet! Arbeitszeit ca. 2,5 Stunden, nun druckt mein 2600 wieder wie neu!

Danke sagt

Karl Trutschl

Karl Trutschl -